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THE ANCIENT RIPULAE

BAGNO A RIPOLI FROM ORIGIN TO MIDDLE AGES

  • Type of route: paved, practical for cars, motorcycles and bikes
  • Duration: ½ day
  • Level of difficulty: easy

Bagno a Ripoli is a land with ancient origins. The proposed itinerary will bring the participant face to face with the traces of this rich past found throughout the hills, yet at the same time perfectly interwoven into the modern urban fabric. The path to discovering the antique Ripolae starts right in the middle of the city itself, where the ruins of a building and pavement in opus signinum (terracotta obtained by crushing bricks, tiles and of recyclable materials) can be found between Piazza della Pace and the local post office. Numerous coins and glass fragments have also been found, indicating the vitality of the city. Studies done on the archeological remains find that the size of the old Roman settlement is equivalent to the modern day city.
The excavations have also unearthed numerous layers of various structures; while attributable to many different periods, most of them can be dated to the Roman Empire (3rd century AD). This shows that even in very ancient times Bagno a Ripoli was considered to be in a strategic location in regards to communication and trade.

Leaving the excavations and the city center we will head towards Pontassieve, soon turning right on Via Villamagna. The eponymous hill is dotted with tower houses and castles. A notable example is the Rignalla Castle, an old fort converted into a villa by the Spinelli family, located in a splendid and dominating position overlooking the Arno valley and nearby streets. The building lost its 14th century appearance thanks to restoration works undertaken; the only medieval aspect that has survived is the crenellated wall. The Belforte and Monte Acuto Castles are even more striking. However, both are privately owned and therefore can only be admired from afar. The first, due to the presence of the tall tower and the style of its windows and openings (reinforced by other structures over the course of the two centuries following its construction), can be dated to the first half of the 13th century. Several rounded arched brick openings can be admired on the eastern side, probably original features of the tower. The small windows on the northern side of the tower, however, have maintained their medieval design. Although tower appears finished and then raised again due to the abrupt change in building material and style, on a whole it can be assumed that it constitutes the oldest part of the entire complex. Near the entrance to Castelbelforte a beautiful pietra serena stone basin is found, from which the upper section of another tower house, known as the Torre delle Nutrici, can be admired from afar. The tower can only be reached by means of a significant deviation from the planned route. The structure was substantially altered as can be noted by the masonry face that results very different from the lower levels of even and well-placed limestone rows, datable to the 13th century, and the reconstruction of the battlements.
Above Belfore, reached by taking the road that leads from Villamagna to the small village of Case San Romolo and then Vallina, stands the majestic Castello di Monte Acuto. As early as the 10th century there were reports of an austere fortress overlooking the Arno Valley. Property of the antique Compiobbesi family, natives of the Remole Parish and distinguished by their fierce Ghibelline beliefs, the castle then purchased by the Salviati family in the 15th century, who then transformed the Castle into a sumptuous villa. In 1571 Montuato went to the Acciaiuoli family, who had come to the area from Brescia in the distant 1160, by means of a nuptial gift. After a series of changes in ownership, the Castle was purchased by the Blasi Foglietti family (19th century) who in turn commissioned a student of Adolfo Copppedè, the celebrated father of the Italian neo-Gothic, to restore the building. In reality the building was subjected to a substantial remodeling and restyling that affected both the façade facing Villamagna and the ancient tower. The changes to the overall appearance of the Castle were not liked by the famous scholar and critic Lensi Orlandi Cardini, who later defined it as a castle for puppets. During WWII the Castle was severely damaged during the bombing campaign to liberate Bagno a Ripoli. Fortunately, however, the tower and small St. James chapel, home to a fresco attributed to Francesco Granacci, were left in tact.
Returning back down it is recommended to head back to Grassina and take Via di Tizzano towards San Polo. Near the small village of Quarate we will find a castle of the same name. The Castle is famous for its tower, known as the tower of the olive, thanks to the olive tree that grows atop it.
On the hill in front of the Quarate tower, set in an ancient chestnut and oak forest at the beginning of the Fontesanta Park, we find the striking Palazzaccio di Marcignano. It is not easy to reach, but its beauty is worth the adventure. Therefore, from Quarate take the Via di Poggio al Maondorlo (be careful: the road is unpaved and quite rough in some spots, but passable by car) until reaching the junction with Via delle Tavernuzze. Turn left and proceed for about 300 meters until you see barred pathway to the right. Leave your car and follow the path through the beautiful forest until reaching a large cleaning where you will find the ruins of Palazzaccio. The large structure is completely overrun with vegetation, particularly ivy, evoking a scene straight from romantic literature. Despite its poor state of preservation, at least two distinct phases of construction can be detected. The first phase can be identified in the lower part of the tower and several portions of lower walls; the second phase claims the upper levels of the entire structure and is characterized by an elegant decorative sandstone mullioned window dating back to the early 15th century. It was then that the Rinuccini family, owners at the time, described the structure as a "tower with fortress".
For those who wish to proceed with the discovery of this magical place, it is recommended that you continue climbing the hill along path that leads from Palazzaccio to Casa Gavignano, a rural residence built on the ruins of a fort. After a few hundred meters through the dense forest, staying on the path bordered by a stone wall and marked with CAI indications to Tizzano, you will find the famous Etruscan inscription Sasso Scritto.
The visit to the antique Ripulae concludes in the village of Antella, whose ancient origins have been confirmed by multiple Etruscan findings (such as a architectural fragment in sandstone), and the ruins of the Roman Villa of Publio Alfio Erasto.

 

CASTLE OF QUARATE
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made evident by its name derived from the Latin centuria quadrata, the Quarate complex rests over an old Roman fortress (castrum), in all likelihood restored and amplified in Lombard times for defensive purposes. The Castle, officially documented for the first time in a 1098 Carta, presents itself as a residential structure flanked by a tower to the northwest and another free-standing tower, which stands out for the olive tree that grows atop it, just a few meters away. A short distant away a small chapel dedicated to St. Michael the Archangel, now in ruins, can be found. The chapel was active as a parish until the 15th century. In 1346 the complex was still a part of the assets that remained undivided between members of the local Quaratesi family, their name obviously derived from that of the city itself. The garden and tower complex was described as "comune con tuti i consorti (con) una casa à piede de la detta torre" ("shared by men and their wives, made up of a house and tower"). Part of the structured rested on a defensive wall, at least partially bordered by a moat. The building itself seems to have been a residential structure of a certain prestige, built around a courtyard in line with the Florentine style of the time. It went from the place of origin to the "residence villa" of the Quaratesi, who remained owners until 1534. The access door to the courtyard, recently restored, gave light to a parchment with the following words, undoubtedly adding to the mysterious charm of the castle:
"Questa porta fàcione fare madonna Oretta et madonna Camilla, figliole
di Andrea Quaratesi, l'anno 1523 del mese di septembre, quando fuggirono
la morìa di Quarata. Lavoròlla mastro Battista legnaiolo a Monte et è la
porta d'olmo"

As was frequently the case at the time, and as we can see from the quote above that recounts the escape of the two daughters of Andrea Quaratesi Oretta and Camilla to their country house in 1523 to escape the plague, rich city residents would often seek refuge in their country villa to avoid the plague; it was well-known at the time that the disease spread more readily in the densely populated cities.